The giddy, excited feeling of riding waves with your brother. Each swell bumps the bottom of your board and lifts it up until you're crested at the top: staring back down at the wave, looking over the side, knowing there's a drop coming fast. You can feel the rush in your gut when you think about it. But if this wave crashes as hard as you think it will, riding out the drop might be impossible. The relentless pounding of water is deafening; the spray that hits your face stings like hail. Do you bail or ride it out? If you bail now you'll miss that first turn- sometimes the best one. This is why boards have handles, after all; to hold on tight for those turns and drops.
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